NORTHERN ECHO Rievaulx Abbey walk

Northern Echo - Walk of the Week
Published: 31/12/09

Rievaulx Abbey, Bow Bridge, Tylas Barn, Ashberry Farm and Rievaulx Bridge.
5 miles, 3 hours.

Photos of the walk (in order):
Rievaulx Abbey
Rievaulx Abbey footpath
misty Ryedale
The Inn Way signpost
Tylas Farm
Rievaulx from Tylas Barn
across Ryedale
misty Rievaulx Abbey

View the route description and map at http://www.thenorthernecho.co.uk/leisure/mindbodysoul/walks/

Please note: this web page is updated every Thursday with a new walk.

Let it snow...

Snowing in Swaledale

The Yorkshire Dales are covered with snow, and there's more on the way. Time to get your winter gear on and head out to the hills.

PIC: Arkengarthdale

walk of the week

Walk of the Week

Cold Kirby and Scawton, North York Moors

4.75 miles, 2 hours, 1 pub

Route: Cold Kirby, Flassen Dale, Scawton, Stocking House, Nettle Dale, Flassen Dale, Low Field Land.

Highlights: Deep steep-sided valleys, a pub built by the monks of Rievaulx and countless pheasants.

FREE walking weekend route pack

FREE Walking Weekend route pack.

Buy any book from our on-line shop http://www.innway.co.uk/ and get a FREE walking weekend route pack. This walking weekend route pack will change on the first of every month, with 12 walking weekends to collect throughout the year.

The walking weekend pack will contain two walks from a village in either the Yorkshire Dales, Peak District, North York Moors, North Pennines or Lake District. It will be sent as a PDF document via email.

See our on-line shop for full details.

Cheers!

Mark Reid

Walking Weekends Lake District

WALKING WEEKENDS: LAKE DISTRICT

My latest walking guidebook is now in the shops, after 18 months research and writing. This book features 24 circular walks from 12 villages, with a mountains walk and a low-level walk from each village - ideal for a weekend break.

5p from every copy sold will be donated to the 'Fix the Fells' appeal - and £75 has already been donated! The 'Fix the Fells' appeal raises money to help repair and maintain eroded upland paths in the Lake District, thus ensuring this beautiful landscape is passed on to future generations in good order.

Walking Weekends: Lake District

Langdale Pikes from Esk Pike













Thornthwaite Beacon (near High Street)













Gamlin End, above Buttermere













View from High Spy, above Borrowdale













Walking Weekends: Lake District
At last! After 18 months of walking over 250 miles of Lakeland paths, researching and writing, this book is finally at the printers being printed! I've enjoyed every moment of my time in the Lake District (around 40 days' walking) in all weathers and all seasons; my favourite time is autumn because there are less people, the colours are wonderful and the pubs warm and welcoming.

My best experiences? Staying at the Royal Oak Hotel at Rosthwaite (wonderfully old fashioned country hotel where dinner is served at 7pm prompt by sounding a gong!), wild camping beside Angle Tarn, my Sigg water bottle frozen solid on the summit of Helvellyn when it was minus 10 degrees, the lakeside path around Ullswater on a May evening, snowdrifts on Skiddaw in February, dense mist of High Stile and relying totally on compass bearings, a pint of two of Coniston Bluebird Bitter and having the summit of Great Gable all to myself on a beautiful Wednesday afternoon in late March!

Last weekend (Friday to Monday) I re-walked four of the mountain routes to check accuracy as, when I originally walked them, it was winter and there was low cloud and strong winds, so I went back to make sure they were OK. They were fine (one or two minor 'tweaks' to the text), which was very reassuring!

I again stayed at the Royal Oak at Rosthwaite, and then walked up High Spy ridge (12 miles) above Borrowdale on Friday, High Stile ridge (9 miles) above Buttermere on Satruday, High Street (12 miles) on Sunday and finally Bowfell (9 miles) on Monday. The weather on Monday was perfect - cool, clear, still and amazing visibility.

The book will be out in about 3 weeks time (RRP £9:95), featuring 24 walks from 12 villages throughout the Lake District (Walking Weekends: Lake District, by Mark Reid).

I'll miss the Lakes...

Best walking gadget?

My favourite walking gadget?

I'm often asked what is my favourite piece of walking kit or, at Christmas or birthdays, is there something I would like as a present?

Apart from the basics which you should always carry (boots, waterproofs, rucksack, map, compass, headtorch, first aid kit, bivvy bag etc), the five top walking gadets / pieces of kit that I find most useful are:

• i-pod nano - for listening to classical / Frank Sinatra (who sings at walking speed) / jazz whilst I'm out walking on my own.
• Iron Oxide hand warmers - I use these in winter. They're like teabags that are full of iron filings that oxidise when exposed to the air, which then produces heat. Perfect for putting in your winter mitt gloves to keep your fingers lovely and warm.
• Thermos flask - I know it sounds a bit 'red socks and bobble hats', but you can't beat a cup of hot chocolate whilst sheltering behind a stone wall on a rain-lashed moorland. The first sip transports you back to somewhere warm, dry and cosy!
• Group Shelter - I've got three sizes of group shelter -2 person, 4-6 persons and 8-12 persons. I've used these several times 'in anger' when some people in the walking group have been cold and there's no shelter. Within seconds you're warm, out of the wind and rain. The only downside is that the warmth is damp body heat, which makes the inside rather like a sauna, and the trick is to be very quick packing it away as you soon get cold again. Potentially a real life saver if you have an injury in a remote location.
• Gaiters - some walkers love them, some hate them. Try walking through wet heather or bracken without them.

GPS? I never use mine. I've got one, but it sits at the bottom of my rucksack for that moment when I don't know where I am, which has not happened yet! If you have good map and compass skills then you'll never need one. And a GPS is useless unless you have good map and compass skills! For me, a major part of the enjoyment of walking is navigation, and that means reading and interpreting the landscape around you, which you can only do with a map. If you're thinking of buying one, then spend your money on a navigation course instead. Have I mentioned that I run weekend navigation courses in the Yorkshire Dales?

Cheers

Mark Reid

Navigation Skills weekends

NAVIGATION SKILLS

This year's Navigation Skills (NNAS bronze level) have proved popular, with almost all of the monthly courses now sold out.

These weekend courses not only teach navigation skills, but route planning, weather forecasts, essential gear & equipment, emergency procedures plus much more, which are just as important as being able to safely find your way through the countryside.

I will be posting details of next year's courses on http://www.teamwalking.co.uk/ in autumn. Myself and Richard Tarran will be running monthly NNAS bronze and silver level courses throughout 2010.

The Inn Way waterproof route descriptions

This summer, I've bumped into several people walking my Inn Way routes who suggested producing the route descriptions seperately, as they found carrying the book with them whilst route finding (in a map case!) was a problem when it was raining!

With this in mind, I have now reproduced the route descriptions from my Inn Way long distance routes on waterproof, tear-resistant paper.

Lightweight, clear, precise and waterproof - ideal to use in conjunction with The Inn Way guidebooks and OS maps

Wasdale weekend

Wasdale walking weekend - 8th to 10th May 2009

This weekend I'm heading up to Wasdale with 13 mates to celebrate my pending 40th birthday with a weekend of walking and drinking! We're staying at the Strands Inn at Nether Wasdale and on Saturday we're planning to walk from there up to Haycock, Pillar, Black Sail and down to the Wasdale Head Inn for about 3pm. This is an 11-mile walk that should take us 6 hours. The weather forecast isn't good with heavy rain showers and winds of up to 50 mph, which should make it interesting walking across the top of Pillar! We'll then have a couple of hours at the Wasdale Head Inn during the afternoon to sample some of the beers from the Great Gable Brewery - I particularly like Illgill Head - before heading back to Nether Wasdale. So, if you're going to be in Wasdale this weekend, pop into the Wasdale Head Inn and say hello!

Picture: dropping down from Illgill Head back into Wasdale

Meugher

Walk of the Week - 05/05/09

Yarnbury, Grassington Moor, Meugher (575 metres), Sandy Gate, Mossdale and Bare House. 10 miles / 6 hours.

Meugher is said to be the most remote fell in the Yorkshire Dales. It is certainly the least visited (until I wrote this walk up for the Northern Echo!). It rises up on the lonely watershed between Wharfedale and Nidderdale, surrounded by miles of rolling moorland, with few landmarks or features, which makes this whole area a navigational challenge!

However, this is a walk of stark beauty that heads up through the abandoned lead mines across Grassington Moor before steadily climbing to eventually reach the rounded grassy summit of Meugher. The views from this summit are expansive with Great Whernside, Little Whernside and the Nidderdale moors clearly visible. Meugher is surrounded by peat hags, deep gullies and thick tussock grass that saps your energy. From Meugher, the route headed west to pick up the bridleway at Sandy Gate that leads down into unfrequented Mossdale and back to Yarnbury. Map, compass and good knowledge of how to use them essential. If you are unsure, then sign up for one of my navigation skills courses - http://www.teamwalking.co.uk/

Fremington Edge

WALK OF THE WEEK - 23/04/09

8 miles / 4 hours. Reeth, Swing Bridge, Grinton, Marrick Priory, Marrick, Fremington Egde and the White House.

Fremington Edge rises sheer above the confluence of Arkengarthdale and Swaledale, a vast wall of screes and crags that affords a superb view of Reeth far below. The walk across the top of the broad ridge is one of the finest in the Dales, and if you combine it with a riverside walk from the Swing Bridge, through Grinton to the historic remains of Marrick Priory, then you will be rewarded with a memorable walk.

Upper Teesdale

WALK OF THE WEEK - 13/04/09

12.5 miles / 6 hours. Bowlees, High Force, Cronkley Fell, Upper Teedale, Raven Crag, Forest-in-Teesdale, Dirt Pit.

The upper reaches of Teesdale stand as England's last wilderness, a vast landscape of open fells, moors and sweeping valleys. Here you will find the Teesdale Assemblage, a unique and rare collection of arctic-alpine plants that have survived since the last Ice Age. The path across Cronkley Fell is known as the Green Trod, an ancient cattle drove road across the fells from Teesdale to Dufton. The views are superb, including this photo of the start of the descent down into Upper Teesdale.

The Guardian - travel feature

The Guardian - travel feature, 11/04/09

IT'LL ALL END IN BEERS

Mark Reid's 'Inn Way... to the Yorkshire Dales' was a 2-page travel feature in The Guardian on Saturday 11th April 2009.

In late February 2009, Ian Belcher accompanied Mark Reid and the three Eagar Brothers from Canada, who were filming an adventure travel TV programme for Canadian TV as well as for National Geographic. We walked 5 out of the 6 stages of 'The Inn Way' walk.... read all about the ensuing adventures on the Guardian website...

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2009/apr/11/yorkshire-walking-holidays-uk

BUY 'The Inn Way... to the Yorkshire Dales' NOW: http://www.innway.co.uk/acatalog/The_InnWay_Titles.html#a4


PHOTO: Antony Cake

The Ale Trail - pub reviews

The Ale Trail - Pub Reviews, as featured in the Yorkshire Post

By Mark Reid, author of ‘The Inn Way’ guidebooksOn the trail of Yorkshire’s great country pubs, where walkers are welcome,beer is in tip top condition and the food is hearty and wholesome.

Feversham Arms, Church Houses

There’s more to Farndale than daffodils. It is a beautifully verdant valley of patchwork fields, scattered farms and meandering river sheltered by trees. Wonderful walks abound through the valley and across the surrounding moorland, although pick your times carefully for around 40,000 people visit Farndale during March and April to marvel at the display of wild daffodils that carpet the riverside pastures. There are many stories as to how these daffodils came to be in this valley, some say that they were planted by the monks of Rievaulx or by the community of Friars who settled in the valley during the Middle Ages.

Of course, crowds of people are not a problem in January. A touch of frost still lingered in the shadow of the walls and the sun was trying to break through the morning mist as I set off from Low Mill. The path is a delight as it meanders alongside the river. 40-minutes later and I was in the hamlet of Church Houses; I had hardly warmed up, let alone built up an appetite for lunch at the Feversham Arms. I know this pub well as it lies along the route of my North York Moors ‘Inn Way’ walk, but it changed hands 18 months ago and I had yet to meet the new licensees. After all, a pub is all about the people who run it.

The first thing that surprises you is the fact that there is a pub here at all, for Church Houses is a remote hamlet tucked away in the heart of the North York Moors. The second thing that surprised me was the warmth of the welcome as the landlady behind the bar was really friendly and cheerful. I ordered the homemade Tomato and Tarragon soup (£2:95) and a pint of Black Sheep Best Bitter (£2:50 a pint) and was assured it really was homemade. The beer was in excellent condition with a pronounced dry hoppiness characteristic of Black Sheep’s ales. The cosy stone-flagged bar was busy with people eating and when I sat down a lady at the table next to me exclaimed “that was delicious, absolutely fantastic!” as the landlady cleared their plates. This boded well. My soup was excellent, plenty of it and unmistakably homemade and the landlady even brought a dog chew out for Elvis who had been eyeing up my bread baguette.

The Feversham Arms is unashamedly a walkers’ pub; unpretentious, unspoilt and wonderfully friendly, so much so that you don’t want to leave the warmth of the bar. I overheard the landlady talking to two of her customers about some walkers who knocked on the pub door at 5pm on Boxing Day. They thought they were in Westerdale and were looking for their car. Westerdale, the landlady explained, was a good three hour walk away over the moors in the next valley. As they looked tired, cold and wet she told them to hop in her car and she gave them a lift back to Westerdale. “That was kind”, I said, “Well, you’d hope someone would do the same for you.”

Contact:
Feversham Arms, Church Houses, Farndale, Kirkbymoorside: 01751 433206

Opening Hours:
12 – 2pm, 6 – 11pm (food served until 9pm in the evenings). Open all day during March and April.

Food
Extensive menu, generous portions, delicious food. Menu includes 10oz Sirloin Steak £12:95, Bangers & Mash £8:25, Steak & Kidney Pie £8:75.

Real Ales
Choice of two regular ales and one occasional guest, including Black Sheep Best Bitter and Tetley’s Bitter.

Accommodation
Three en-suite bedrooms, from £32:50 per person.

Walkers Welcome?
Stone-flagged bar where dogs and boots are welcome.

TEXT COPYRIGHT - MARK REID 2009

The Ale Trail - Pub Reviews

The Ale Trail - Pub Reviews, as featured in the Yorkshire Post

By Mark Reid, author of ‘The Inn Way’ guidebooksOn the trail of Yorkshire’s great country pubs, where walkers are welcome,beer is in tip top condition and the food is hearty and wholesome.

Crown Hotel, Middlesmoor

January is a time to reflect upon the year that has passed and look forward to the year ahead. But so often we are surrounded by the noise and distraction of everyday life that there is scarce opportunity to stop, think and reflect. What we need is inspiration, and it has to be on a big scale, preferably the top of a hill or mountain. It is the combination of fresh air, far-reaching views and open hills that offer a sense of space and freedom that works in mysterious ways to soothe, inspire and refresh. A walk across the Yorkshire moors helps clear your mind and allows escapism from everyday life. But most of all, it provokes thought, reflection and contemplation.

The upper reaches of Nidderdale offer dramatic scenery as impressive as Wharfedale or Swaledale but with the added attraction of two reservoirs. Cradled by high fells, the man-made reservoirs of Angram and Scar House stand out starkly against the wild and untamed landscape. You can only stand in wonder at the skill and effort it took to build the massive dam walls, with the scant remains of the workers’ village testament to their toil. From the dam, I followed an old track steeply up above Woodale Scar onto the open moorland of Scar House Pasture, the deep snow underfoot frozen and crisp lying sheltered by the north-facing crags. As I reached the moorland crest, a wonderful view unfolded along the length of Nidderdale with the waters of Gouthwaite Reservoir sparkling in the distance. Nature was starting to work its magic when I realised that it was almost three o’clock – on a Sunday as well – and there was over a mile to go to the Crown Hotel at Middlesmoor. Surely I had missed last orders. Perhaps the licensee would take pity on me. I decided to run. There is not much passing trade in Middlesmoor for this is one of the most remote villages in the Yorkshire Dales some 1,000-ft above sea level where the road ends, or starts. Windswept is a word that springs to mind.

I reached the front door of the pub at ten past three and was surprised to find it open, but not just that, it was full. Sometimes things come together at the right time to create a memorable moment, and this was one of them. Outside the snow was beginning to freeze as the afternoon sky turned a pale orange, whilst inside a mix of farmers, gamekeepers and locals sat around the bar, their contented chatter and laughter filling the room. I perched my rucksack on the spare table beside the fireplace with its cast-iron stove radiating heat. Elvis, my German shorthaired pointer, was also in luck as one of the gamekeeper’s Springer spaniels took a shine to him, although, for once, the warm fireside took preference. I sat down with my pint of Black Sheep Best Bitter (ABV 3.8%, £2.50 a pint) and soaked up the atmosphere. For me, an unpretentious village pub like this is as much a part of the Yorkshire Dales experience as the hills and valleys I had just walked across.

Contact:
Crown Hotel, Middlesmoor, Pateley Bridge, North Yorkshire: 01423 755204

Opening Hours:
Winter - Sat & Sun all day, Tues & Fri 12 – 3pm, 7 – 11pm. Food available lunchtime and evening during opening hours. Open every day from Easter to October.

Food
Popular menu choices include Steak & Ale Pie £6:50, Nidderdale Lamb Chops £8:50 or Black Pudding, Bacon & Mash £6:50.

Real Ales
Choice of four hand-pulled local ales, including Black Sheep Best Bitter and Special, Wensleydale Brewery’s Semer Water and Well’s Bombardier.

Accommodation
Seven bedrooms, from £27:50 per person.

Walkers Welcome?
Flagstone bar where dogs and boots are welcome.

TEXT COPYRIGHT - MARK REID 2009

The Ale Trail - Pub Reviews

The Ale Trail - Pub Reviews, as featured in the Yorkshire Post

By Mark Reid, author of ‘The Inn Way’ guidebooks

On the trail of Yorkshire’s great country pubs, where walkers are welcome,
beer is in tip top condition and the food is hearty and wholesome.

New Inn, Eccup, Leeds

A pair of Red Kites soared above the rolling fields of the Harewood Estate, silently circling above woodland copse and hedgerows. These magnificent birds live and breed on the extensive farmland that surrounds Harewood House and Eccup Reservoir, just to the north of Leeds, for this is now one of the best sites in the country to see these birds of prey that, until quite recently, were extinct in England. Also hidden away on the Harewood Estate is the purpose-built Emmerdale village that is used for filming. The estate is criss-crossed by bridleways and footpaths, with routes passing near the fictional Emmerdale village as well as around Eccup Reservoir. And with a bit of careful planning, your walk may also pass the New Inn at Eccup.

An overnight heavy snowfall had given way to clear skies and a gradual thaw, ideal winter walking conditions. With cold fingers and toes, I arrived at the New Inn just in time – another minute spent watching those Red Kites would have meant no lunch for me. The first thing that struck me was the warmth, for just across from the bar was a glowing coal fire set in a stone fireplace; very welcoming. There was only one other couple in the bar, who told me that the pub is usually full of walkers. I ordered my soup and half of Tetley’s Bitter (£2.25 per pint) and sat down next to the fire. The beer was well-kept and flavoursome with the distinctive slightly sulphurous ‘Tetley’ tang quite noticeable. Tetley’s always tastes best in Leeds, and my first sip brought memories flooding back. When I left university back in 1990 I got a graduate trainee job with Allied Breweries and was based at Joshua Tetley & Son in Leeds. Those were the days when Leeds was Tetley’s heartland where almost every pub sported the famous huntsman logo. Horse-drawn drays delivered cask beer to the city’s pubs, and the bitter was probably the best of its kind produced by a national brewer. How things have changed. Leeds without Tetley’s Brewery? Unthinkable, but by 2011 a reality.

Whilst I was waiting for my soup the dance music coming from the speakers suddenly changed to Christmas carols. I would have preferred some peace and quiet whilst I lamented Tetley’s demise. My bowl of homemade mushroom and chestnut soup (£2:25) soon arrived, piping hot and extremely thick – I could almost stand my spoon up in it! It had a subtle mushroom flavour, and an even more subtle chestnut flavour, but was hot and filling, especially with the half baguette that came with it. A specials board by the bar offered plenty of choice in addition to the lunchtime and evening menu, all reasonably priced.

It is a friendly and traditional country pub that even boasts a tap room, a rarity nowadays. The decor is a tad tired, but I felt quite at home in my walking gear and boots sat by the coal fire with my Tetley’s and soup.

Contact:
New Inn, Eccup Lane, Leeds, LS16 8AU. Tel: 0113 288 6335

Opening Hours:
Open Mon – Fri 12 ‘til 3pm, 5pm ‘til 11pm; Sat & Sun all day.
Food served Mon – Fri 12 ‘til 2pm and 6 ‘til 9pm, Sat 12 ‘til 9pm, Sun 12 ‘til 5pm.

Food
An extensive and reasonably priced menu including homemade steak & ale pie (£7:45), haddock in homemade batter (£7:45) and 16oz T-bone steak (£11:45)

Real Ales
Choice of three hand-pulled ales including Tetley’s Bitter (ABV 3.7%), Timothy Taylor’s Landlord (ABV 4.3%) and Old Speckled Hen (ABV 4.5%).

Walkers Welcome?
Walkers and dogs welcome (in the tap room). Outside, there is a large patio and children’s play area.

TEXT COPYRIGHT MARK REID 2009

The Ale Trail - Pub Reviews

The Ale Trail - Pub Reviews, as featured in the Yorkshire Post

By Mark Reid, author of ‘The Inn Way’ guidebooks

On the trail of Yorkshire’s great country pubs, where walkers are welcome,
beer is in tip top condition and the food is hearty and wholesome.

Cover Bridge Inn, East Witton, Wensleydale

Looking for a great Christmas pub walk? Look no further than the Cover Bridge Inn, one of Yorkshire’s great walkers’ pubs. The 7-mile circular walk from the pub along the banks of the river Cover and then the Ure to the romantic 12th Century ruins of Jervaulx Abbey, over Kilgram Bridge to Thornton Steward and back passing the ancient Church of St Oswald, the oldest in Wensleydale, offers a magnificent combination of inspiring landscapes, monastic ruins and a welcoming pub at the end. It is the layers of history that surround you, and a keen eye to spot them, that bring the landscape alive. The monks of Jervaulx began cheese-making back in the 1100s, the recipe for which has remained in the area ever since and is now known as Wensleydale Cheese. The village of Thornton Steward was once the home of the steward of Alan the Red of Britanny, Norman earl of Richmond and nephew of William the Conqueror. The Cover Bridge Inn stands between the ancient fords across the Cover and Ure along a road that probably dates back to Roman times.

After an early start, I arrived back at the Cover Bridge Inn at lunchtime, my appetite well and truly whetted by muddy paths and ecclesiastical history. I have been to this pub many times before and it never changes, which is part of its charm. The first hurdle for any newcomer is actually getting into the bar, for the door latch takes a bit of fathoming out, much to the amusement of the locals. I bagged the table beside the inglenook fireplace, which was well stoked up with coal and logs, and then I began the difficult task of choosing one of the seven real ales on draught. The landlord obviously takes great pride in his beer with local brews on sale and eight framed CAMRA awards behind the bar. Well, when in Rome... I chose a pint of Yorkshire Dales Brewery’s Butter Tubs (ABV 3.7%, £2.50 a pint), brewed in Askrigg a few miles up Wensleydale. Excellent condition, just the right temperature with a rich amber colour and dry hoppy flavour that preceded a lingering bitterness. But I wasn’t just here for a liquid lunch, so I ordered the famous Ham & Eggs - as seen on TV, as the sign outside proclaims. The bar had a very relaxed atmosphere with a handful of locals at the bar and a party of walkers in the adjoining dining room. It was then I noticed the stone carved bust of a strange horse-like creature in the alcove. This was the legendary Kelpie, whose name is derived from the Celtic word for ‘water horse’, an evil spirit that is said to rise from the foaming waters at the confluence of the rivers Cover and Ure at dusk to stalk its victims before pursuing them into the water. I think I’ll stay put by the fire!

Contact:
Cover Bridge Inn, East Witton, Leyburn, North Yorkshire: 01969 623250

Opening Hours:
Bar open all day; food available 12 – 2pm, 6 – 9pm.

Food
Excellent food and generous portions, including Ham & Eggs (£10), Homemade Steak Pie (£8:25) and Ploughman’s Lunch (£7).

Real Ales
Choice of seven hand-pulled local ales, including Theakston’s Best Bitter and Old Peculier, Black Sheep Best Bitter, Salamander Brewery’s Gold Dust, Bradfield Brewery’s Farmer’s Blonde, Wensleydale Brewery Rowley Mild, Yorkshire Dales Brewery Butter Tubs and John Smith’s Bitter.

Accommodation
3 en-suite rooms, from £27:50 per person.

Walkers Welcome?
Dogs welcome in the bar, but muddy boots should be left in the porch.

TEXT COPYRIGHT MARK REID 2008

The Ale Trail - Pub Reviews

The Ale Trail - Pub Reviews, as featured in the Yorkshire Post

By Mark Reid, author of ‘The Inn Way’ guidebooks

On the trail of Yorkshire’s great country pubs, where walkers are welcome,
beer is in tip top condition and the food is hearty and wholesome.

Lister Arms, Malham, Malhamdale

Malham is undoubtedly one of Yorkshire’s most popular tourist honey-pots, up there with Haworth and Fountains Abbey. The reason people flock to Malham in their tens of thousands each year is to see Malham Cove, one of England’s natural wonders. In fact, as the keen geographers amongst you will know, the Malham area boasts the finest glacio-karst landscape in this country. In other words, there are some pretty spectacular limestone cliffs and valleys that were shaped by glacial meltwater during the last Ice Age. The immense rock face of Malham Cove was formed by movements in the earth's crust along the Mid Craven Fault millions of years ago which vertically displaced an immense slab of Great Scar Limestone over seventy metres upwards. After the last Ice Age, torrents of meltwater poured over the lip of Malham Cove to create an incredible waterfall higher than Niagara. As the ice melted and the ground warmed, this river found a new subterranean route thus leaving Watlowes valley ‘high and dry’. It is no wonder that so many people visit Malham, and the best way to see all of this is on foot.

I had arranged to meet two American travel writers to show them the sights. We sometimes take our countryside for granted, but when you experience it with someone who has never visited England before then it makes you very proud. I knew all would be well as I approached the Lister Arms, for this 18th Century coaching inn oozes character, with its ivy-clad facade and coat of arms above the door. We met at the bar and sat at a table near the log burning stove, whilst Elvis (my dog) sat attentively sniffing the air as food was served at nearby tables. It all felt very comfortable. The Americans had only been introduced to English ale two nights before and loved the complex flavours and, with four hand-pulled ales from Thwaites of Blackburn on offer, they asked my advice. As we were going for a walk, I recommended a pint of Wainwright (ABV 4.1%, £2.75 a pint), a light and fruity ale that is named after the great Lakeland fell-walker, whilst I plumped for a pint of Nutty Black (ABV 3.3%, £2.35 a pint), a deliciously dark mild ale packed full of roasted malt flavours. The minestrone soup (£3.95) arrived quickly; tasty and homemade with strands of spaghetti in it and topped by grated cheese; a meal in itself. Lunch over, we set off towards Malham Cove then followed the stone staircase steeply up to its top. The afternoon sun was beginning to dip towards the horizon, its faltering rays slanting across the valley far below highlighting an intricate web of fields and walls. We stood there in quiet contemplation taking in the view, for this was the English countryside at its very best.

Contact:
Lister Arms, Malham, North Yorkshire. Tel: 01729 830330

Opening Hours:
Open all day. Food served 12 – 3pm and 6 – 9pm during the winter months, all day Easter to October.

Food
A good range of food including Game Pie (£10:50), Steak & Kidney Pudding (£9:50) and 10oz Rump Steak (£13:95).

Real Ales
Choice of four hand-pulled ales from Thwaites Brewery, including Nutty Black (ABV 3.3%), Original Best Bitter (ABV 3.6%), Wainwright (ABV 4.1%) and Lancaster Bomber (ABV 4.4%).

Accommodation
9 rooms, from £28 per person per night (pets welcome).

Walkers Welcome?
Walkers and dogs welcome, with three bar areas and a separate dining room. The bar boasts many original features including an inglenook fireplace.

TEXT COPYRIGHT MARK REID 2008

The Ale Trail - Pub Reviews

The Ale Trail - Pub Reviews, as featured in the Yorkshire Post

By Mark Reid, author of ‘The Inn Way’ guidebooks

On the trail of Yorkshire’s great country pubs, where walkers are welcome,
beer is in tip top condition and the food is hearty and wholesome.

Blue Bell Inn, Kettlewell, Wharfedale
If you, like me, love walking and pubs, then it doesn’t get much better than this. Kettlewell is perhaps the finest village in the Yorkshire Dales to indulge these two great passions. The village is surrounded by some of Yorkshire’s highest fells, including Great Whernside (704 metres) and Buckden Pike (702 metres), as well as the superb moorland ridge that separates Wharfedale from neighbouring Littondale. Classic routes radiate in every direction. Founded by a Viking chieftain over a millennium ago, its heyday was during the 18th and 19th centuries when lead mining flourished and the old stagecoach route from London to Richmond came this way. Thirteen inns helped slake the thirst of the market-goers, miners and travellers. Three inns have survived, whose names hark back to the romantic days of stagecoach travel, although I doubt whether the people travelling in the back of a horse-drawn coach being hauled up the notoriously steep hairpin bends of Park Rash behind the village would have viewed it as romantic travel; more bone-shaking and nerve-jangling.

I had just tackled the summit of Great Whernside, coming down via Great Hunters Sleets and Top Mere Road, the old monastic route used by the monks of Coverham Abbey to get to their lands around Kettlewell. After a knee-jerking mile along a track made up entirely of loose rocks, I was now in need of rest, recuperation and refreshment, and Elvis (my dog) was in need of a fireside snooze. But which pub should I choose? The exterior of a pub tells a story; if it is clean, well-maintained and weed-free then you can safely bet that the bar, cellar, toilets and kitchen will be pretty clean as well. And so I was drawn to the bright paintwork and hanging baskets of the Blue Bell Inn, an old coaching inn that dates back to 1680. It was quiet inside with just four other people, but there again it was 3:30pm on a Friday afternoon. I perched on a bar stool, whilst Elvis curled up beside the fire. The young lad behind the bar knew his Copper Dragon beers, which was a good thing for this is one of only a handful of pubs owned by the Skipton based brewery. Assured that it was their best seller, I ordered a pint of Copper Dragon Best Bitter (ABV 3.8%, £2:50 per pint) and a packet of crisps. No soup for me, as I had missed last orders for food by an hour and a half. I always think that country pubs should offer some type of food all day, something quick and easy such as pre-prepared sandwiches or soup. They are missing a trick. The beer was in good condition, full bodied and rounded with a rich amber colour, reminiscent of those classic Yorkshire bitters that used to be big name brands back in the 1980s and 90s, but long since closed down by some multinational brewer. And the crisps were, well, salty and crisp.

It was hard to leave the warm fireside, and even harder to drag a 30 kilo dog from his slumber but, tempting though it was, I could not justify sitting at the bar for two hours waiting for food service to resume. Judging by the steady trickle of people who came in to book a table for their evening meal, it is a popular place to eat. Perhaps next time I’ll plan my walk a bit better.

Contact:
Blue Bell Inn, Kettlewell, Wharfedale. Tel: 01756 760230

Opening Hours:
Open all day. Food served 12 – 2pm and 6 – 9pm.

Food
A good range of locally sourced food perfect for hungry walkers, including Steak & Copper Dragon Ale Pie £8:25; Local Shoulder of Lamb £13:95; Fresh Jumbo Haddock in homemade beer batter £8:50.

Real Ales
Choice of four hand-pulled ales from Copper Dragon Brewery at Skipton, including Black Gold (ABV 3.7%), Best Bitter (ABV 3.8%), Golden Pippin (ABV 3.9%) and IPA (ABV 4.4%).

Accommodation
6 rooms, £75 per room per night B&B.

Walkers Welcome?
Muddy boots and dogs welcome, with a cosy bar complete with quarry-tile floor, beamed ceiling and cast-iron stove set in a large stone fireplace.

TEXT COPYRIGHT MARK REID 2008

The Ale Trail - Pub Reviews

The Ale Trail - Pub Reviews, as featured in the Yorkshire Post

By Mark Reid, author of ‘The Inn Way’ guidebooks

On the trail of Yorkshire’s great country pubs, where walkers are welcome,
beer is in tip top condition and the food is hearty and wholesome.

Bridge Inn, Grinton, Swaledale

I was coming to the end of a four hour walk across Grinton Moor, where the decaying remains of a once-flourishing lead mining industry lie abandoned across the rolling moorland with old workings and spoil heaps all around that tell of a time of great industrial activity, now forlorn and silent. Suitably tired and with fading light, I reached the village of Grinton beside the River Swale, where little windows of yellow light shone out from cold grey-stone cottages. What we needed now was rest and sustenance. I say we, as I was accompanied by Elvis, my German Shorthaired Pointer; hill-walker extraordinaire and pub fire aficionado. Do they, don’t they? The question went through my mind as I approached the door of the Bridge Inn. “We’re in luck, Elvis – muddy boots and dogs welcome.” After four hours traipsing through knee-high heather, the last thing I wanted to do was take off my walking boots and leave Elvis outside guarding them.

As I walked into the bar I was struck by how busy it was, for 6:30pm on a Monday evening. Several people were stood at the bar chatting away; a gamekeeper with his Labrador, a farmer and a couple of locals. I glanced round the bar. There were three or four tables of people waiting for food, a log fire glowed in the grate and there were a couple of other dogs masquerading as rugs lying flat out asleep on the carpet. I felt at home. Standing at right-angles to the bar I could not see the pump clips, so asked what beers they had. A local quickly interjected, “The Cereal Killer’s pretty good. It’s an organic wheat beer, brewed in North Yorkshire.” Well, how could I resist? But at 4.5% ABV I settled on half a pint (£1:40). The beer was well-kept and crystal clear with a sharp hop nose, but a little too bittersweet for my liking.

Now, I am of the firm opinion that you can judge the quality of food at a pub by its soup. Every pub sells soup, but not every pub serves really great soup. It’s a walker’s staple. Quick, warming, filling and reasonably priced – ideal food for the hills. Order placed, I found a quiet table near the fire for Elvis to warm himself and sat down, fascinated by the old photos on the walls. I was soon tucking into a bowl of homemade leek and celeriac soup (£3:50) and warm mini-baguette. The soup was piping hot and delicious, although the bowl could have been slightly bigger as I was left wanting more.

I had a wander around before I left. A door led through to a large dining room, with comfy leather sofas set around a coal fire, perfect for aperitifs, whilst on the other side of the bar steps led down to a traditional games room. This pub is geared up for walkers and wholeheartedly welcomes them. And there are a lot of them about, for Swaledale is a walkers’ paradise.

Contact:
Bridge Inn, Grinton, Richmond, North Yorkshire. Tel: 01748 884224

Opening Hours:
Open all day for food and drink.

Food
An extensive menu, all homemade using locally sourced produce, including Rack of Swaledale Lamb (£15:95), Belly Pork served on a stew of Lentils (£8:95), Steak and Ale Pie (£7:95) and Grinton Moor Grouse (£16:95), as well as homemade desserts (£4:50) including Liz’s Ginger Pudding and Rosé Wine Jelly.

Real Ales
Choice of four hand-pulled ales, including Jenning’s Cumberland Ale (ABV 4%) and Dark Mild (ABV 3.1%) plus two guest beers which, at the time of my visit, were Duchy Organic Ale (ABV 4.4%) and North Yorkshire Brewery’s Cereal Killer Organic wheat bitter (ABV 4.5%).

Accommodation
5 rooms, £72 mid-week and £76 weekends per room per night.

Walkers Welcome?
Muddy boots and dogs most welcome. Classic routes radiate in all directions, including Fremington Edge, Arkengarthdale, Marrick Abbey and Harkerside Moor. A number of long-distance routes pass this way including the Coast to Coast, Herriot Way and The Inn Way... to the Yorkshire Dales.

TEXT COPYRIGHT - MARK REID 2008

The Ale Trail - Pub Reviews

The Ale Trail Pub Reviews, as featured in the Yorkshire Post

By Mark Reid, author of ‘The Inn Way’ guidebooks

New Inn, Appletreewick, Wharfedale

Most pub reviews celebrate the latest chic gastro-pub, with its pastel colours, place settings on all tables and ‘reduced jus’ menu blackboard. The vast majority of pubs don’t make the gastro-pub grade, but still offer excellent food and a warm welcome. And Yorkshire boasts some of the best country pubs in England; unique hostelries that are as much a part of the Yorkshire countryside as the hills and valleys. But all is not well. 36 pubs are closing every week in this country, and rural pubs are under threat as never before. Close the village pub and you rip the heart out of the community, with nowhere left to meet, celebrate or socialise and nowhere for visitors to experience local life. In order to safeguard this important part of our culture and heritage, it is a case of ‘use them or lose them’. So, I am on the trail of Yorkshire’s great country pubs, where walkers are welcome, beer is in tip top condition and the food is hearty and wholesome.

The sign outside proclaims ‘Hikers, Cyclists, Mountain Bikers, Horse Riders Welcome’, so it would be rude not to go in. After all, I’m on foot, it’s raining hard and I’m hungry. The New Inn at Appletreewick is geared up for the outdoor enthusiast, particularly if you’re into mountain biking for it is home to the World’s first mountain biking livery where you can safely store and repair your bike, ready to hit the trails of the Yorkshire Dales again. The walls of the pub are adorned with maps and snaps of mountain bikers, as well as fascinating old prints of ‘Aptrick’, as it’s known locally. The main bar is large and airy, with assorted tables and chairs, piped music and a smallish blackboard crammed with an extensive menu of snacks, mains and desserts, all reasonably priced. Sadly, the fire was not lit in the cast-iron stove, despite the onset of autumn outside; but still, the pub was warm and welcoming. I stood at the bar surveying the range of seven hand-pumps waiting patiently for service, when a local suggested I tap the bell. The barman instantly appeared and greeted me with a genuine smile. The beer selection was safe, reliable and local – no unknown micro beers here – and the barman knowledgeable. His description of Daleside’s Blonde (ABV 3.9%, £2:50 a pint), a light and hoppy brew with a hint of citrus, convinced me to try a pint, as well as a bowl of homemade roasted vegetable and tomato soup (£3:95). The beer was in excellent condition, just the right temperature and full of flavour, and before I’d had chance to blow the froth off my pint the soup arrived, piping hot, tasty and substantial. This is a genuine and unpretentious pub that is geared up for walkers and proud of its beer, where you feel comfortable even if dripping wet. I will be back, but next time I may just bike there.

Contact:
New Inn, Appletreewick, Skipton, North Yorkshire. Tel: 01756 720252

Opening Hours:
Open all day. Food served 12 noon until 9pm.

Food
An extensive range of food perfect for hungry walkers, including Home Roast Gammon Ham £9:95 and Local Kilnsey Trout £9:95. Choice of nine homemade desserts as well including Jam Roly Poly and Rhubarb Crumble, all £3:95.

Real Ales
Choice of seven hand-pulled ales from local brewers including Black Sheep, Daleside and Theakston’s as well as an extensive range of draught and bottled Belgium and Continental beers.

Accommodation
Six bedrooms - £65 per room per night.

Walkers Welcome?
Muddy boots and dogs welcome, with a tile and wood floor in the bar. Outside there is an extensive beer garden with views across Wharfedale. Appletreewick lies along the Dales Way, and great walks abound including Simon’s Seat, Troller’s Ghyll and riverside paths along the Wharfe.

TEXT COPYRIGHT MARK REID 2008